2005 UIAA Climbing World Championships

The 2005 UIAA Climbing World Championships, the 8th edition, were held in Munich, Germany from 1 to 5 July 2005. It was organized by the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA). The championships consisted of lead, speed, and bouldering events.[1][2]

2005 UIAA Climbing World Championships
Location Munich, Germany
Date1 – 5 July 2005
Competitors318 from 51 nations

The lead chief route-setter was Donato Lella.

Medalists
Event Gold Silver Bronze
Men's Lead Tomas Mrazek
 Czech Republic		 Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza
 Spain		 Alexandre Chabot
 France
Men's Bouldering Salavat Rakhmetov
 Russia		 Kilian Fischhuber
 Austria		 Gerome Pouvreau
 France
Men's Speed Evgenii Vaitsekhovskii
 Russia		 Maksym Styenkovyy
 Ukraine		 Sergei Sinitcyn
 Russia
Women's Lead Angela Eiter
 Austria		 Emily Harrington
 United States		 Akiyo Noguchi
 Japan
Women's Bouldering Olga Shalagina
 Ukraine		 Yulia Abramchuk
 Russia		 Vera Kotasova-Kostruhova
 Czech Republic
Women's Speed Olena Ryepko
 Ukraine		 Valentina Yurina
 Russia		 Edyta Ropek
 Poland

Men

In men's lead, three climbers topped the route, and so their final standings were decided by their semifinal results.[3]

In men's bouldering, the 38-year-old veteran Salavat Rakhmetov sent all six problems in his first attempts in the final round, claiming the gold. Second place Kilian Fischhuber also sent all six problems, but needed two attempts more than Rakhmetov, while third place Gerome Pouvreau needed 13 attempts to top and 11 attempts to zone all six boulder problems.[4]

In men's speed, Evgenii Vaitsekhovskii won the gold medal, while Maksym Styenkovyy and Sergei Sinitcyn took second and third respectively.

Lead[5][3] Bouldering[6][4] Speed[7]
Rank Name Score Result Rank Name Score Result Rank Name Result
Tomáš Mrázek Top 8800 Salavat Rakhmetov 6t6 6z6 8400 Evgenii Vaitsekhovskii 5900
Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza Top 7040 Kilian Fischhuber 6t8 6z8 6720 Maksym Styenkovyy 4720
Alexandre Chabot Top 5720 Gerome Pouvreau 6t13 6z11 5460 Sergei Sinitcyn 3835
4 Cedric Lachat 30.22- 4840 4 Serik Kazbekov 6t13 6z13 4620 4 Tomasz Oleksy 3245
5 Jorg Verhoeven 29.09+ 4488 5 Nalle Hukkataival 5t5 5z5 4284 5 Manuel Escobar 3009
6 Timo Preussler 29.09+ 4136 6 Daniel Du Lac 5t7 5z6 3948 6 Evgueni Minatchev 2773
7 Serik Kazbekov 27.51+ 3784 7 Dmitrii Sharafutdinov 5t7 5z7 3612 7 Iakov Soubbotine 2537
8 Maksym Petrenko 11.96- 3520 8 Cedric Lachat 5t8 6z12 3360 8 Alexander Peshekhonov 2360
9 Sylvain Millet 11.24+ 3256 9 Tomáš Mrázek 4t6 4z6 3108 9 Kyrylo Shevchenko 2183
10 Ramón Julián Puigblanqué - 2992 10 Jérôme Meyer 4t7 5z9 2856 10 Vyacheslav Titov 2006
11 Keita Mogaki 3t3 5z10 2604
12 Jorg Verhoeven 3t3 4z5 2352

Women

In women's lead, Angela Eiter dominated the competition by being the only climber topping the semifinal route and climbing six meters higher than the rest of the competition on the final route. Emily Harrington climbed to second place while 16-year-old Akiyo Noguchi claimed the bronze medal, her first medal in senior competition. The defending champion Muriel Sarkany placed 10th.[3]

In women's bouldering, Olga Shalagina had a clean run by topping all six boulder problems in her first attempts in the final round. Yulia Abramchuk and Vera Kotasova-Kostruhova sent five problems, separated by attempts. The 35-year-old Renata Piszczek from Poland finished 4th, ahead of Anna Stöhr.[4]

In women's speed, Olena Ryepko took the win, and Valentina Yurina and Edyta Ropek claimed second and third place respectively.

Lead[8][3] Bouldering[9][4] Speed[10]
Rank Name Score Result Rank Name Score Result Rank Name Result
Angela Eiter 29.34- 8700 Olga Shalagina 6t6 6z6 8800 Olena Ryepko 4200
Emily Harrington 23.68- 6960 Yulia Abramchuk 5t5 6z6 7040 Valentina Yurina 3360
Akiyo Noguchi 23.25+ 5655 Vera Kotasova-Kostruhova 5t9 6z9 5720 Edyta Ropek 2730
4 Olga Shalagina 22.61 4785 4 Renata Piszczek 5t9 5z8 4840 4 Cuifang He 2310
5 Caroline Ciavaldini 21.35 4437 5 Anna Stöhr 5t10 6z9 4488 5 Anna Stenkovaya 2142
6 Sandrine Levet 18.13- 4089 6 Olga Bibik 4t4 6z6 4136 6 Olesya Saulevich 1974
7 Natalija Gros 17.73 3741 7 Tatiana Shemulinkina 4t6 6z7 3784 7 Lisa Knoche 1806
8 Katharina Saurwein 17.73- 3480 8 Venera Chereshneva 4t6 5z10 3520 8 Lenke Kucsera 1680
9 Yana Chereshneva 17.05+ 3219 9 Esther Cruz Montalban 4t8 6z18 3256 9 Olga Zakharova 1554
10 Muriel Sarkany 16.51- 2958 10 Corinne Theroux 4t8 4z7 2992 10 Lucelia Blanco 1428
11 Elizabeth Asher 4t8 4z8 2728
12 Jain Kim 3t3 6z9 2464
13 Yana Chereshneva 3t4 5z 2288

References
  1. "Results". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-08-30.
  2. "UIAA World Rock-climbing Championship, Munich. Lead. Semifinal / Climb / Mountain.RU". www.mountain.ru. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
  3. "Tomas Mrazek and Angela Eiter World Champions". PlanetMountain.com. Archived from the original on 2017-08-10. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
  4. "Rakhmetov and Shalagina Bouldering World Champions". PlanetMountain.com. Archived from the original on 2021-08-31. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
  5. "Result: M E N lead". www.digitalrock.de. Archived from the original on 2012-01-22. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
  6. "Result: M E N bouldering". www.digitalrock.de. Archived from the original on 2012-01-22. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
  7. "Result: M E N speed". Archived from the original on 2012-01-22.
  8. "Result: W O M E N lead". www.digitalrock.de. Archived from the original on 2012-01-22. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
  9. "Result: W O M E N bouldering". www.digitalrock.de. Archived from the original on 2012-01-22. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
  10. "Result: W O M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Archived from the original on 2012-01-22. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
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