Chogolisa

Chogolisa (Urdu: چوگولیزا from Chogo Ling Sa; literally "Great Hunt") is a trapezoidal mountain in the Karakoram range in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. It lies near the Baltoro Glacier in the Concordia region, which is home to some of the highest peaks in the world. Chogolisa has several peaks: the highest, on the southwest face (Chogolisa I), rises to 7,665 metres (25,148 ft); the second-highest at 7,654 metres on the northeast side (Chogolisa II) was named Bride Peak by Martin Conway in 1892.[3]

Chogolisa
Chogolisa seen from the "shoulder" of K2
Highest point
Elevation7,665 m (25,148 ft)[1]
Ranked 36th
Prominence1,624 m (5,328 ft)[2]
ListingUltra
Coordinates35°36′51″N 76°34′45″E[2]
Naming
Native nameچوگولیزا (Urdu)
English translationGreat Hunt
Geography
Chogolisa is located in Pakistan
Chogolisa
Chogolisa
Location in Gilgit-Baltistan
Chogolisa is located in Gilgit Baltistan
Chogolisa
Chogolisa
Chogolisa (Gilgit Baltistan)
LocationGilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan
Parent rangeKarakoram
Climbing
First ascentAugust 2, 1975 (Chogolisa I)
1958 (Chogolisa II)
Easiest routeRock/snow/ice climb
Chogolisa
Traditional Chinese喬戈里薩峰
Simplified Chinese乔戈里萨峰

In 1909, a party led by Duke of the Abruzzi reached 7,498 m (24,600 ft) from a base camp located on the northern side and a high camp on the Chogolisa saddle at 6,335 m. Bad weather stopped the party from ascending further, but their climb established a new world altitude record.[1]

Austrian mountaineers Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger attempted Chogolisa in 1957 after they had successfully summitted Broad Peak behind Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller a few weeks earlier. On June 25 they left camp I and camped in a saddle at 6,706 m on the southeast ridge. On June 27 a sudden snowstorm forced them to retreat and, on the descent, Buhl broke off a big cornice and fell into the mountain's near vertical north face. His body has never been found.[1]

On August 4, 1958, a Japanese expedition from the Academic Alpine Club Kyoto University led by Takeo Kuwabara (桑原武夫) made the first ascent of Chogolisa II, placing Masao Fujihira and Kazumasa Hirai on top. [4] [5]

The first ascent of Chogolisa I was made on August 2, 1975, by Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer of an Austrian expedition led by Eduard Koblmueller. Koblmueller almost suffered the same fate as Buhl, as he also fell through a snow cornice on the ascent, but he was roped and team members were able to pull him to safety.[1]

See also

References
  1. "Chogolisa/Bride Peak". Everest News. Retrieved 2004-01-03.
  2. "Karakoram and India/Pakistan Himalayas Ultra-Prominences". peaklist.org. Retrieved 2010-08-05.
  3. Conway, Sir William Martin (1894). Climbing and Exploration in the Karakoram Himalayas. Indus Publishing. ISBN 81-7387-122-1.
  4. "The First Ascent of Chogolisa", by Takeo Kuwabara, The Alpine Journal (1959)p. 168
  5. "Japanese Conquer Mountain", The New York Times, August 20, 1958, p. 7
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