Gaby Aghion

She was born in Alexandria, Egypt,[5] the daughter of a cigarette factory manager. She met her husband, Raymond Aghion (1921–2009), when both were seven years old in elementary school. He was born into a wealthy family of cotton exporters, but displayed early stirrings of the social consciousness that would later land him in political exile. They were both Jewish and married at the age of 19, before moving to Paris in 1945. In Paris they gravitated toward the Communists, becoming close to writers Louis Aragon, Paul Éluard and Tristan Tzara.

Aghion launched Chloé in 1952. Raymond opened an art gallery in 1956, specializing in modern art.[6]

Aghion rejected the stiff formality of 1950s fashion[5] and created soft, feminine, body-conscious clothes from fine fabrics, calling them "luxury prêt-à-porter". Unique for their time, they were clothes available off the rack. She set up her workshop in a maid's room above her large flat. Aghion and Jacques Lenoir formed a partnership in 1953, with Lenoir taking charge of the business operations while Aghion took on the creative responsibilities.

The duo put on the first Chloé show in 1956 at a breakfast at the Café de Flore, an important place for young intellectual Parisians in the 1940s and 1950s.[7]

Aghion said: "Everything was yet to be invented, and this thrilled me." She hired Karl Lagerfeld early in his career, along with other emerging fashion designers.[8] Her son, Philippe, recalls Lagerfeld coming to the company in the mid-1960s: "When he arrived from [the house of] Jean Patou, Karl was a shy individual. He and my mother made a fantastic team. He came into the spirit of Chloé."[6]

Gaby Aghion continued to run Chloé until 1985, when it was bought by Dunhill Holdings (now Compagnie Financière Richemont Group).[5] She died in Paris on 27 September 2014.[9][10]

In fall 2023, the Jewish Museum will honor her legacy with Mood of the moment: Gaby Aghion and the house of Chloé, the first museum exhibition detailing her work.

• French Legion of Honor (2013)[5]

• Chloé website
• Chloe by Helene Schoumann (published by Assouline, 2003).
• Gaby Aghion and Karl Lagerfeld revisit the past at an exhibition on the history of the Chloé label in Paris. The New York Times, 17 October 2012