Jakob Schubert

Jakob Schubert (born December 31, 1990) is an Austrian professional rock climber, sport climber and boulderer. He was World Champion (2012, 2018, 2021) and World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) in Lead climbing. He has redpointed to 9b+ (5.15c). In August 2021, he won bronze at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo. As of the end of 2022, Schubert had won the most men's IFSC gold medals of any competitive climber in history.

Jakob Schubert
Jakob Schubert at the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships
Personal information
NationalityAustrian
Born (1990-12-31) December 31, 1990
Innsbruck, Austria
OccupationProfessional sport climber
Height176 cm (5 ft 9 in)
Weight63 kg (139 lb)
Websitehttps://www.jakob-schubert.com
Climbing career
Type of climberSport climbing
Highest grade
Known forThree times World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) and three times World Champion (2012, 2018, 2021) in Lead climbing
First ascents9a (5.14d)
Medal record
Olympic Games
Bronze medal – third place2020 TokyoCombined
World Cup
Winner2011Lead
Winner2011Combined
Winner2012Combined
Winner2013Combined
Winner2014Lead
Third place2015Lead
Second place2016Lead
Second place2016Combined
Winner2018Lead
Winner2018Combined
World Championships
Silver medal – second place2005Youth Lead
Silver medal – second place2006Youth Lead
Gold medal – first place2007Youth Lead
Gold medal – first place2008Juniors Lead
Gold medal – first place2009Juniors Lead
Silver medal – second place2011Lead
Gold medal – first place2012Lead
Silver medal – second place2016Lead
Gold medal – first place2018Lead
Gold medal – first place2018Combined
Silver medal – second place2019Bouldering
Bronze medal – third place2019Lead
Gold medal – first place2021Lead
European Championships
Gold medal – first place2022 MunichCombined
Bronze medal – third place2010Lead
Bronze medal – third place2013Bouldering
Bronze medal – third place2017Lead
Updated on August 5, 2021.

Biography

He started climbing in 2003, when he was twelve years old. In 2004, he participated in the European Youth Cup and World Youth Championships. Since 2007, he regularly participates in the World Cup competitions for lead climbing. For seven world Cup seasons out of ten, from 2007 to 2016, he also competed in bouldering.

In 2011, he won the Lead World Cup and the silver medal at the Lead World Championships in Arco.[1] The World Cup was outstandingly obtained by winning seven consecutive competitions in that season. Previously, no climber was ever able to win as many World Cup competitions in a single season (in 2002, Alexandre Chabot had won six).[2]

In 2012, he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Paris.[3]

In 2014, he won the Lead World Cup for the second time.[4]

In 2018, when he was 27 years old, he became World Champion again, in his own birthplace and home town, Innsbruck. He earned the title by reaching in the final event the same score as Adam Ondra (36+), but a higher score in the semifinal, where he ranked second after Domen Škofic. A few days later, in the same competition, he also conquered the Combined title by ranking second in Speed, first in Bouldering and second in Lead. In the same year, he was awarded his third World Cup.

Schubert's performance at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships qualified him for a place at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics[5] where he won Bronze.

Rankings
Jakob Schubert at the World Cup in Munich, 2012.
See also: Best IFSC results

Climbing World Cup[6]
Discipline 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018
Lead 26 7 4 2 1 3 2 1 3 2 6 1
Bouldering 60 65 19 3 2 - 25 23 10 9
Speed - - - - - 43 59 - - - - 59
Combined - - 4 2 1 1 1 - 4 2 6 1

Climbing World Championships

Youth[7]

Discipline 2004
Youth B		 2005
Youth B		 2006
Youth A		 2007
Youth A		 2008
Juniors		 2009
Juniors
Lead 33 2 2 1 1 1

Adult[7]

Discipline 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018 2019 2021
Lead 26 2 1 5 2 1 3 1
Bouldering - - - - - 10 2 27
Speed - - - - - 110
Combined - - - - - 1 -

Climbing European Championships[7]
Discipline 2008 2010 2013 2015 2017
Lead 6 3 7 6 3
Bouldering - - 3 4 -
Speed - - 35 27 31

Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup

Lead[7]
Season Category Gold Silver Bronze Total
2004Youth B11
2005Youth B11
2006Youth A3115
Total3137

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead[7]
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
200811
2009112
20101214
20117119
20121315
20132215
20142125
2015224
2016235
2017213
2018235
2021 1 1
Total19171349

Bouldering[7]
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
201111
2012112
20131113
201811
2019112
2021 1 1
Total32510

Rock climbing

Redpointed routes

9b+ (5.15c):

9b (5.15b):

  • Neanderthal – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 28, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
  • El Bon Combat – Cova de I'Ocell (ESP) – December 1, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
  • Stoking the Fire – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 5, 2018 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2013)
  • La Planta da Shiva – Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) – January 4, 2016 – Second ascent after Adam Ondra
  • Fight or flight – Oliana (ESP) – December 31, 2014 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2011)[8]

9a+ (5.15a)

  • Catxasa – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 9, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
  • Seleccio Anal – Oliana (ESP) – January 8, 2017
  • Pachamama – Oliana (ESP) – January 2, 2017 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2009)
  • Joe Mama – Oliana (ESP) – December 27, 2016 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
  • Kangroo Limb – Flatanger (NOR) – May 29, 2016 – Second ascent after Adam Ondra
  • Companion of Change – Zillertal (AUT) – November 18, 2015 – First ascent
  • Papichulo – Oliana (ESP) – April 27, 2011 – Sixth ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2008)[9]

9a (5.14d):

  • Kein Licht Kein Schatten – Ötztal (AUT) – November 8, 2016 – First ascent
  • Kraftplatzl – Berglsteiner See (AUT) – October 15, 2016 – Second Ascent after David Lama
  • Direct open your mind – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 3, 2013
  • Fuck the System – Santa Linya (ESP)- January 2, 2013[10]
  • Analogica Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 2, 2013[10]
  • Seleccio Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 28, 2012
  • Ciudad de Dios – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 24, 2012
  • Martin Krpan – Misja Pec (SVN) – November 21, 2011[11]
  • Hades – Nassereith, Götterwand (AUT) – May 30, 2010 – First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2008[12]
  • Underground – Massone, Arco (ITA) – March 30, 2010 – First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998

Onsighted routes

8c (5.14b):

Boulder problems
8C (V15)
  • Sierra Madre – Zillertal (AUT) – November 20, 2018
8B+ (V14)
  • Witness the fitness – Cova de Ocell (ESP) – January 13, 2019 – flashed [14]
  • Hide and Sick – Maltatal (AUT) – March 25, 2018
  • Off the Wagon - Val Bavona (CHE) January 10, 2020

See also

References
  1. planetmountain.com, ed. (November 28, 2011). "Puigblanque re di Spagna, insieme a Eiter, Kim e Markovic". Retrieved December 23, 2011.
  2. climbmagazine.com, ed. (October 22, 2011). "Record 7 World Cup wins". Archived from the original on July 23, 2012. Retrieved April 15, 2012.
  3. Franz Schiassi (September 18, 2012). planetmountain.com (ed.). "Campionati del Mondo di arrampicata sportiva 2012, tutti i risultati da Parigi". Retrieved September 18, 2012.
  4. "Jain Kim and Jakob Schubert win the Lead World Cup 2014". PlanetMountain.com. 2014-10-28. Retrieved 2022-09-04.
  5. "Jakob Schubert and Alexander Megos qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo". LACRUX Klettermagazin. 19 August 2019. Retrieved 18 July 2021.
  6. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  7. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Schubert's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  8. planetmountain.com, ed. (January 2, 2015). "Jakob Schubert ripete Fight or Flight 9b a Oliana in Spagna". Retrieved February 19, 2015.
  9. planetmountain.com, ed. (April 28, 2011). "Jakob Schubert e Gabriele Moroni scatenati". Retrieved December 22, 2011.
  10. up-climbing.com, ed. (January 3, 2013). "Realizzazioni spagnole per Schubert e Midtboe". Archived from the original on April 12, 2013. Retrieved January 5, 2013.
  11. up-climbing.com, ed. (November 27, 2011). "9a per Jakob Schubert". Archived from the original on 2011-12-26. Retrieved December 22, 2011.
  12. up-climbing.com, ed. (June 2, 2010). "Jakob Schubert – 9a". Retrieved December 22, 2011.
  13. up-climbing.com, ed. (April 25, 2011). "Jakob Schubert 8c onsight". Archived from the original on 2016-03-07. Retrieved December 22, 2011.
  14. "Jakob Schubert flashes 8B+ boulder Catalan Witness the Fitness". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2019-03-29.
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