The Mandala

In the sport of rock climbing, The Mandala is a 6-metre (20 ft) high bouldering problem (a difficult but short climb completed without a rope) in the Buttermilks, a popular bouldering area near Bishop, California. It is one of the most widely known boulder problems in the world, and is graded V12 (8A+).[3][4][5]

For other uses, see Mandala (disambiguation).
The Mandala
Map showing the location of The Mandala
Map showing the location of The Mandala
Location of the route
LocationBishop, California
Coordinates37°17′40″N 118°36′36″W[1]
Climbing AreaThe Buttermilks
Route TypeBouldering
Vertical Gain6-metre (20 ft)[1][2]
GradeV12 (8A+)[1][2]
First ascentChris Sharma, 2000

History

The problem climbs a steep overhanging prow on a large granite boulder that for many decades was considered too difficult and futuristic to solve.[6] In 2008, Climbing magazine recounted a story from the 1970s where John Bachar and Ron Kauk reportedly joked the line would one day fall to John Gill's grandchildren, and describing it as a boulder that "to this day remains one of the most coveted and storied problems in American bouldering".[6]

It was first climbed by Chris Sharma in February 2000.[4][7] Sharma's ascent received much acclaim in the climbing community, however, he did not assign the problem a grade.[8] The boulder was repeated by other climbers several months later in quick succession, the first being Dave Graham,[4] secondly by Jared Roth, and thirdly by international boulderer Fred Nicole,[9] and with subsequent ascents by others the grade was consolidated at V12 (8A+).[4] Since the first ascent, several holds have broken, including one of the crux holds.[9][2] In 2002, Tony Lamiche completed the first flash of the route.[4] In January 2008, Lisa Rands made the first female ascent,[4][6] and in 2011, Alex Johnson made the second female ascent.[10] Contemporary ascents are still covered in the climbing media.[11][12]

Variations

In 2002, a sit start (SDS) was added by Tony Lamiche, which is graded at V14 (8B+),[13] and is sometimes referred to as The Mandaloin, or The Mandala SDS.[8] In 2007, Jeff Silcox added a more intimidating direct finish (avoiding the left escape near the top of the prow), to create The Mandala Direct, still graded V12 (8A+).[8] Later in 2007, Paul Robinson, added the sit-down-start to Silcox's route, making the first ascent of The Mandala Direct Assis, graded V14 (8B+).[8]

Filmography
  • Chris Sharma's first ascent: Lowell, Josh (director) (11 February 2012). Dosage Volume I (Motion picture). Big UP Productions. ASIN B000NOK288. Retrieved 25 December 2021.

See also

References
  1. "The Mandala V12". thecrag. Retrieved 2 February 2022.
  2. "The Mandala V12". MountainProject. Retrieved 2 February 2022.
  3. "Rock Stars: 10 of the Most Famous Boulder Problems in the World". 21 July 2017.
  4. "Buttermilks Mandala boulder climbed by Lisa Rands". PlanetMountain.com. 24 January 2008. Retrieved 2 February 2022.
  5. Beal, Peter (30 April 2021). "The Classic 25: America's Best Boulder Problems". Outside. Retrieved 2 February 2022.
  6. Justin Roth (14 March 2008). "Lisa Rands on The Mandala". Climbing Magazine. Retrieved March 15, 2018.
  7. Nogin, Monica (11 November 2014). "Alex Megox sends Mandala Sit Start V13/14". Rock & Ice. Retrieved March 15, 2018.
  8. "Video: Paul Robinson Mandala Direct Assis (V14) First Ascent". ClimbingArc. 3 December 2008. Retrieved 2 February 2022.
  9. "Sachi Amma Crushing in Bishop". Gripped.com. 29 March 2015. Retrieved 2 February 2022.
  10. "Alex Johnson Sends The Mandala". ClimbingArc. 31 January 2011. Retrieved 2 February 2022.
  11. "Israeli Sender Alex Khazanov Flashes Mandala V12". Gripped.com. 12 December 2017. Retrieved 2 February 2022.
  12. "Kai Lightner Storms Bishop, Hikes The Mandala (V12)". Rock & Ice. 2019. Retrieved 2 February 2022.
  13. McDonald, Dougald (21 January 2008). "Lisa Rands Boulders Mandala (V12)". Climbing. Retrieved 2 February 2022.
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