Tomoa Narasaki

Tomoa Narasaki (楢﨑 智亜 Narasaki Tomoa, born June 22, 1996) is a Japanese professional sport climber and boulderer.

Tomoa Narasaki
Tomoa Narasaki in Munich, 2017
Personal information
NationalityJapanese
Born (1996-06-22) June 22, 1996
Utsunomiya, Japan
OccupationProfessional sport climber and boulderer
Height170 cm (5 ft 7 in)
Weight58 kg (128 lb)
Spouse(s)Akiyo Noguchi (m. 2021~)
Climbing career
Type of climberBouldering
Ape index+10 cm (4 in)
Highest grade
Known forWorld Cup winner and World Champion
Medal record
World Cup
Winner2016Bouldering
Second place2017Bouldering
Winner2017Combined
Second place2018Bouldering
Second place2018Combined
Winner2019Bouldering
Second place2022Bouldering
World Championships
Gold medal – first place2016Bouldering
Gold medal – first place2019Bouldering
Gold medal – first place2019Combined
Silver medal – second place2021Bouldering
Asian Championships
Silver medal – second place2016Bouldering
Gold medal – first place2022Bouldering
Gold medal – first place2022Lead
Gold medal – first place2022Combined
Asian Games
Bronze medal – third place 2018 Combined
Updated on June 9, 2019.

He started climbing at age 10, together with Sachi Amma, in Sachi's family climbing gym. Previously, he had been training apparatus gymnastics.[1] In 2016 and 2019, he won both the Bouldering World Championship and the overall title at the Bouldering World Cup.[2] His younger brother Meichi Narasaki is also a prominent professional climber.[3]

In 2019, Narasaki qualified for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics by winning gold in the IFSC Climbing World Championships.[4] He placed fourth in the Olympic combined event.[5]

Narasaki formerly held the Japanese record for speed climbing with a time of 5.73 seconds, which he secured in March 2021 at the Climbing Japan Cup speed competition.[6] He is credited with devising the "Tomoa skip", a novel speed climbing method to bypass one of the lower holds in the speed climbing wall.[7]

Rankings
See also: Best IFSC results

Climbing World Cup[8]
Discipline 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2021 2022
Lead 52 - - - 15 16 20 32 -
Bouldering - 26 30 1 2 2 1 6 2
Speed - - - - 84 52 44 59 -
Combined - - - - 1 2 1 - -

Climbing World Championships[9]
Discipline 2014 2016 2018 2019 2021
Lead - - - - -
Bouldering 27 1 - 1 2
Speed - - - - -
Combined - - 5 1 -

World Cup podiums

Lead[9]
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
201722
201811
201911
Total0224

Bouldering[9]
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2016235
201744
20181214
2019134
2021112
2022112
Total514221

Notable Ascents

On December 1, 2019, Narasaki became the sixth climber to flash a V14 boulder after sending Decided in Mizugaki, Japan, on his first attempt.[10] In 2021, Narasaki sent Asagimadara (V15) on his third attempt.[11]

Personal life

On December 25, 2021, Narasaki and fellow Japanese sport climber Akiyo Noguchi announced their marriage on their respective social media pages.[12]

See also

References
  1. "Narasaski comments on his victories and is going for the Olympics". 8a.nu. Retrieved July 20, 2017.
  2. "Tomoa Narasaki earns second overall World Cup bouldering title". The Japan Times. 9 June 2019. Retrieved 13 June 2019.
  3. "NARASAKI CONTINUES TO DOMINATE". IFSC Climbing. Retrieved 2 September 2019.
  4. Nagatsuka, Kaz (21 August 2019). "Tomoa Narasaki climbs to gold at world championships, punches ticket for 2020 Olympics". The Japan Times. Retrieved 18 July 2021.
  5. "Tomoa Narasaki Olympic Results". olympics.com. Retrieved 11 April 2022.
  6. "Tomoa Narasaki Gets Personal Best in Speed Climbing". Gripped. March 8, 2021.
  7. "Tomoa Narasaki raring to scale Olympic walls in sport climbing debut". Kyodo News. August 2, 201. Retrieved September 23, 2021.
  8. IFSC, ed. (November 18, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved November 18, 2019.
  9. IFSC, ed. (November 18, 2019). "Narasaki's profile and rankings". Retrieved November 18, 2019.
  10. "Tomoa Narasaki Flashes Decided V14 in Japan". Gripped. Retrieved April 10, 2022.
  11. "Tomoa Narasaki brings Olympic fitness to the rock: 8c boulder in the third attempt". LACRUX. Retrieved April 10, 2022.
  12. "Japanese sport climbing stars Noguchi, Narasaki announce marriage". Kyodo News. December 26, 2021. Retrieved December 28, 2021.
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