How to Apply a Keratin Treatment

Co-authored by Patrick Evan

Last Updated: October 25, 2022 References Approved

Keratin is a protein that makes up the structure of the hair and protects it from damage and stress. Treatments that contain keratin can smooth curls and frizz and increase shine for up to 2 1/2 months.^{[1]
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Research source} A keratin treatment is applied to washed and fully dried hair, and is not rinsed out before you blow dry and straighten your locks. The treatment should stay in your hair for at least two days before you wash your hair again, during which time you should avoid wearing hair ties or clips. When you do wash your hair, do so only as needed, and with a sulfate-free shampoo only (no conditioner).

Things You Should Know

Choose between an at-home treatment or a trip to the salon, but whatever you do, avoid formaldehyde-releasing treatments.
After washing, drying, and sectioning your hair, apply an at-home keratin treatment and let it sit for as long as your instructions suggest (usually ~20-30 minutes).
Keep the effects of your treatment for longer by skipping showers and hair ties for 3 days following your treatment.

Part 1

Part 1 of 4:

Choosing a Keratin Treatment

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Choose between DIY or a salon treatment. You can expect to pay between $100 and $450 for a single keratin treatment at a salon.^{[2]
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Research source} Doing a keratin treatment yourself won’t give you custom results, since at-home treatments don’t evaluate your individual hair type. At-home treatments tend to be less damaging, but also shorter lasting.^{[3]
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- For example, if you have a light hair color, a salon professional can adjust the formula so that the tonality of your shade doesn’t change.^{[4]
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- If you decide to go with a stylist, schedule a consultation first so they can determine the appropriate formula for your hair.
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Check reviews. Whether you opt for a salon or an at-home kit, make sure to go online and read user reviews before committing. Prioritize quality over looking for a good deal. If you know someone who’s had a keratin treatment, ask them for a referral, including brand of solution and salon/stylist, if applicable.^{[5]
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Understand the process. “Keratin” doesn’t actually smooth hair; the treatment does. During the treatment, a keratin hair straightening product is applied to your hair and the heat of a flat iron is used to seal it in. This results in smoother, straighter hair.

EXPERT TIP

Patrick Evan
Professional Hair Stylist
Patrick Evan is the Owner of Patrick Evan Salon, a hair salon in San Francisco, California. He has been a hairstylist for over 25 years and is a Thermal Reconditioning Specialist, dedicated to transforming difficult curls and waves into sleek, straight hair. Patrick Evan Salon was rated the Best Hair Salon in San Francisco by Allure magazine, and Patrick's work has been featured in Woman’s Day, The Examiner, and 7x7.

Patrick Evan
Professional Hair Stylist

Here's how Patrick Evan Salon owner, Patrick Evan, explains it: "A keratin treatment is a procedure that infuses keratin into the porous parts of the hair strand to add shine and smoothness while reducing frizz and wave. The hair is first washed and clarified to remove any impurities. Afterwards, the keratin solution is applied to the hair in sections, thoroughly dried, then ironed into the hair to bond and seal. On average, the entire process takes about 90 minutes."
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Stay away from formaldehyde releasing treatments. Some keratin treatments contain ingredients that release formaldehyde. Formaldehyde is a chemical that can cause health problems, such as eye and nasal irritation, allergic reactions of the skin, eyes and lungs, and can even cause cancer.^{[6]
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Trustworthy Source
US Occupational Safety and Health Administration
U.S. government agency responsible for setting and enforcing workplace safety standards
Go to source} Other treatments use alternatives to formaldehyde. Check the product label or ask a salon professional if you want to ensure that the treatment is formaldehyde-free.^{[7]
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- Since formaldehyde is used in higher amounts in salons, it can be hazardous to those who work with it often.^{[8]
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  Trustworthy Source
  US Occupational Safety and Health Administration
  U.S. government agency responsible for setting and enforcing workplace safety standards
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- DMDM hydantoin, glyoxal, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, methyl glycol, polyoxymethylene urea, quaternium-15, and sodium hydroxymethylglycinate are all formaldehyde releaser chemicals that may be found in hair care products.^{[9]
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- Treatments without toxic chemicals are not as effective at softening the curl pattern of hair.

Part 2

Part 2 of 4:

Washing and Parting Your Hair

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Wash your hair with an anti-residue shampoo. Massage the shampoo into your hair and work up a lather. Let it sit for three to five minutes, then rinse it out. Apply the shampoo one more time. Make sure to rinse it completely out of your hair afterwards. Don't apply any hair conditioner or mask. Just leave your hair clean. ^{[10]
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- Anti-residue shampoo is formulated to remove buildup from your tresses, such as from conditioners or styling products. This will prepare your hair to evenly absorb the keratin treatment.
- Anti-residue shampoo is sometimes called “clarifying shampoo.”
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Blow dry your hair until it’s completely dry. Run your hands through your hair as you blow dry on a medium heat setting. Make sure that your hair is entirely dry, unless your product’s directions state otherwise.
- A Brazilian treatment requires your hair to be slightly damp (85-90% dry) whereas a keratin treatment requires fully dry hair. Since the terms “Brazilian” and “keratin” (as they relate to hair treatments) are sometimes used interchangeably, it’s important to check with your product’s instructions.
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Part your hair into sections. Using a hair pick or comb, make a part down the middle of your hair. Clip up your hair into four to eight sections (depending on how much hair you have). Make sure to clip each section tightly so that it stays secure during the process.^{[11]
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Part 3

Part 3 of 4:

Treating and Drying Your Hair

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Follow all product instructions exactly. The brand and type of treatment you choose should provide you with precise instructions on how to apply your keratin treatment. Make sure to read and follow all directions and safety precautions.
- If your product instructions differ from these instructions, always follow the directions provided by the manufacturer of your product.
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Apply the product evenly to your hair. Wear gloves and old clothing or a smock. Take a section of your hair and apply the treatment product, starting with a small amount and increasing until the hair is coated but not overly saturated. Use a fine-tooth comb or a hair coloring brush to work the product into each section, from your roots to ends. Clip up each section when you finish it.
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Let the product sit for twenty to thirty minutes, or as instructed. Cover your hair with a shower cap. Allow the product to remain on your hair as long as the directions require.^{[12]
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Dry your hair. Remove your hair cap and clips. Don’t rinse out the product unless the instructions advise you to do so. Blow dry your hair with the product still in. Use the hot or cold setting on your blow drier, depending on which one your product recommends.^{[13]
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Straighten your hair with a flat iron. Set the flat iron to the temperature recommended by the product instructions for your particular hair type. When your flat iron reaches the correct temperature, straighten your hair in small sections (about one to two inches thick). You may want to clip up sections of your hair beforehand or as you finish straightening them.^{[14]
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- Using a flat iron that is too hot may scorch your hair and cause breakage.

Part 4

Part 4 of 4:

Maintaining Your Keratin Treatment

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Don’t wash your hair for at least three days. Washing your hair too soon will shorten the life of your keratin treatment. If you can wait a week before getting your hair wet, even better!^{[15]
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- Try using a dry shampoo if the lack of lathering your locks is bothering you.^{[16]
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Don’t use hair ties for at least 48 hours. Avoid using any ponytail holders such as elastics or even hair clips, if possible. Don't tuck hair behind your ears. Try a fabric bandanna if you want to keep your hair out of your face.^{[17]
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- Using hair ties or clips may cause a crease in your hair. However, this may not be the case if you wear a hair tie loosely.^{[18]
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Avoid heat and certain hair products. Your keratin treatment may last longer if you avoid styling or drying your hair with heat. Wash your hair sparingly – as needed – with shampoo only (skip conditioner).^{[19]
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Research source} Use a sulfate-free shampoo.^{[20]
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Community Q&A

Question

If I dye me hair and then do a keratin treatment right after in the same day, do I wash my hair with clarifying shampoo twice after dyeing my hair? Will it take the color out?

Community Answer

No, you can use the clarifying shampoo and it will not take the color out, but just wash it once, not twice.
Question

Can I use a homemade shampoo on my keratine-treated hair?

Community Answer

No, some shampoos can remove the keratin substance from the hair. You should use shampoos especially made for people with keratin treatment. Ask your hairdresser for advice on which one you should pick.
Question

I have naturally curly, frizzy hair. After completing this treatment, will I still have to blow dry my hair to straighten it?

Community Answer

It depends on how curly your hair is. I know people who had 3B or 3C hair and now their hair is 1A or 1B, so it depends on what strength level of treatment you do and how well your hair reacts to styling.

Warnings

Never allow hair products to get in or near your eyes.

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See a dermatologist before getting a keratin treatment if you have psoriasis or seborrheic dermatitis.^{[21]
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