How to Do Ecaille Hair Color

Co-authored by Ashley Adams

Last Updated: June 2, 2021 References

Ecaille hair color, also known as "tortoise shell," is a popular dyeing technique based off of balayage and high lighting. It focuses on adding golden blonds and browns into your hair in a specific pattern. The result is a beautiful multidimensional hair color with lots of natural movement. While ecaille is traditionally done on brown hair, you can use the technique on any hair color your want. You may not get the same golden shades, but you will still end up with the tortoise shell effect.

Part 1

Part 1 of 3:

Preparing to Ecaille Your Hair

1
Cover your work surface and your cloths. Spread some newspaper over your counter and drape a dyeing cape over your shoulders. If you don't have one, use an old towel instead. Put on a pair of plastic gloves.
2
Cut up sheets of aluminum foil and have them handy. Be sure to fold the top ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) over so that the foil doesn't scratch your scalp when you insert it into your hair. You can also use pieces of plastic wrap instead; keep them separate so that they don't stick together.
- Make the sheets about the no more than 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) longer than your hair and about 4 inches (10.16 centimeters) wide.
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3
Choose a lightener. Ecaille focuses on adding golden tints into your hair in a pattern that is reminiscent of a tortoise shell. You can go as light as you want to, but avoid using anything over 30 volume, or you will risk damaging your hair. If your hair has been previously lightened, then don't use anything higher than 20 volume.^{[1]
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- For more dimension, use two different volumes.^{[2]
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4
Prepare the high lightener. Purchase a hair bleaching or lightening kit from the store. Mix the powder and the cream developer together in a tray or mixing bowl according to the instructions. In most cases, you'll need to use 1 part powder and 2 parts developer.
5
Split your hair into four sections. Part your hair down the center, then use the handle of a rat-tail comb to create a vertical section in front of your ear on the left and right side of your head. Clip these two sections out of the way. Split the back section horizontally just below your ears, and clip the top section out of the way as well.^{[3]
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Part 2

Part 2 of 3:

Doing the Ecaille

1
Gather a small section from the back of your head. By now, you should have just the back section of your hair hanging loose. Take a 2-inch (5.08-centimeter) wide section from the left-most side.^{[4]
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2
Backcomb the section once or twice. Slide the teeth of your rat-tail comb upwards through the strand, starting from the middle and finishing at the roots. If you have thick hair, do this twice.^{[5]
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3
Wrap aluminum foil around the dyed section. Tuck a piece of aluminum foil under the dyed section of hair, with the folded edge against your scalp. Fold the foil in half over your hair, sandwiching it inside.^{[6]
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4
Apply two bands of lightener to the strand with a tinting brush. Apply a thick band of lightener to the middle of the strand, then another to the bottom. Be sure to saturate the strand.^{[7]
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- For best results, use a brush with angled bristles.^{[8]
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5
Cover the strand with more foil. You can place another sheet of foil over it, or you can simply foil the existing piece in half.^{[9]
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6
Coat the bottom of the next section with lightener. This time, only apply the lightener to the bottom half of the section. Cover the strand with aluminum foil when you are done.^{[10]
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7
Continue applying the lightener to your hair. Alternate between using two bands and covering the bottom half of the strand. When you finish the row, let down more hair from the upper section. When you finish the back section, work on the sides.
- When you reach the sides, consider angling the sections upwards, then angling the bangs downwards.^{[11]
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Part 3

Part 3 of 3:

Finishing the Job

1
Allow the lightener to process. How long this takes depends on the brand you are using, how dark your hair is, and how light you want it to go. Avoid going too light, however; you want the strands to maintain a golden color.^{[12]
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- A higher volume developer will process more quickly than a lower developer. For example, a 30 volume developer will take less time than a 10 volume developer.
- Check on the color every 5 minutes. Your hair might process a lot faster than the recommended times on your kit's package.
2
Rinse the lightener out with cool water. Do not use any shampoo or conditioner until after you have rinsed everything out. It would be a good idea to wear an old shirt during this process in case any lightener gets on you.^{[13]
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3
Follow up with a shampoo and conditioner. Many lightening kits will include a shampoo and conditioner. If yours came with them, use them right now. If yours didn't, wash your hair using a shampoo and conditioner formulated for bleached, dyed, or damaged hair. This will help nourish and hydrate your hair and prevent it from getting too brittle.^{[14]
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4
Take care of your hair. Even though you did not add color to your hair, you still want to use a shampoo and conditioner made for bleached, damaged, or colored hair. You will also want to use a hydrating mask and deep conditioning treatments weekly. Limit how much heat styling you do. When you do heat style, remember to use a heat protectant and a lower temperature.

Warnings

It can be very difficult to get ecaille hair color at home. It is highly recommended that you go to a skilled stylist.^{[17]
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