Self rescue (climbing)

Self-rescue is a technique in climbing and mountaineering where the individual climber(s) use techniques and devices to retreat or advance from dangerous or difficult situations without calling on third party search and rescue (SAR), which can save the climber(s) being charged for SAR services and can avoid putting SAR team members in harm's way. Some climbers don't train themselves in real-life conditions (overhanging edges, etc.) and "find they need to seek outside help".[1]

Abseiling can be used in self-rescue

When members of a team require self-rescue, rescuing a fallen partner may expose the rescuer to significant risks. Self-rescue requires having a practiced rescue plan, good communication, and foresight to avoid "an incident within an incident".[1]

Techniques

Techniques employed during self-rescue include:

  • Tandem rappels
  • Counterbalance Rappels
  • Rescue Spiders
  • Rope Soloing
  • Multidirectional Anchors
  • Belay Escapes
  • Rescue Knots
  • Ascending Methods

See also

References
  1. American Alpine Club (2012). Accidents in North American Mountaineering. Golden, CO USA. p. 85. ISBN 978-1-933056-77-7. ISSN 0065-082X.

Further reading
  • David Fasulo, Self-Rescue: How to Rock Climb Series. ISBN 978-0-934641-97-5
  • The Mountaineers Books, Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills_. 8th Ed. ISBN 978-1-59485-137-7
  • Andy Tyson, Molly Loomis. Climbing Self Rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations. ISBN 978-0-89886-772-5
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