Holy Trinity Barbecue

Holy Trinity Barbecue (sometimes Holy Trinity BBQ) was a barbecue restaurant in Portland, Oregon.[1][2] Kyle Rensmeyer established the business as a food cart in southeast Portland's Creston-Kenilworth neighborhood in 2019. Holy Trinity and its barbecue garnered a positive reception. The Oregonian deemed Holy Trinity one of the city's best new food carts, and the Portland Business Journal said its barbecue was "hailed as among the best" in the United States. The restaurant closed in October 2022 and has since held pop-ups.

Holy Trinity Barbecue
Black-and-white logo with the text "Holy Trinity Barbecue"
Photograph of a blue food cart
The food cart's exterior in 2021
Restaurant information
EstablishedMay 2019 (2019-05)
ClosedOctober 23, 2021 (2021-10-23)
Owner(s)Kyle Rensmeyer
ChefKyle Rensmeyer
Street address3582 Southeast Powell Boulevard
CityPortland
CountyMultnomah
StateOregon
Postal/ZIP Code97202
CountryUnited States
Coordinates45.4965°N 122.6267°W / 45.4965; -122.6267
Websiteholytrinitybarbecue.com

Description

Holy Trinity operated from a food cart in a parking lot along Powell Boulevard in southeast Portland's Creston-Kenilworth neighborhood.[3][4] The cart was part of a pod outside John's Marketplace,[5] which was operating in a building previously occupied by Original Taco House.[6] In 2019, David Landsel of Food & Wine wrote:

As with so much of the very best barbecue, you have to really want the brisket that Texas native Kyle Rensmeyer is selling—you need to be prepared to go the distance. The little blue trailer that ... Holy Trinity Barbecue calls home is not a thing one just happens to run across; it hides behind approximately six construction fences, adjacent to a shuttered strip mall, currently under redevelopment, out along one of the last great unwashed commercial thoroughfares, Powell Boulevard, in Portland's increasingly scrubbed-up Southeast.[7]

The menu included Texas-style brisket, Czech sausages, pulled pork,[8] and ribs.[9][10] Sides included cheesy grits, pickles,[11] and banana pudding.[12][13]

History

Pitmaster Kyle Rensmeyer opened Holy Trinity in May 2019.[14][15] The business initially operated on weekends; Thursday and Friday service were added in August 2019.[16][17] Tortillas were sourced from Caramelo Tortillas in Lawrence, Kansas, as of 2019.[18]

Photograph of food carts and outdoor seating
The food cart pod outside John's Marketplace in October 2021

Like many businesses, Holy Trinity's business model changed during the COVID-19 pandemic. In April 2020, Landsel said "a pivot to selling meats in bulk—chilled, and vacuum-packed—for delivery appeared to be going encouragingly well, until somebody complained to the health department". The delivery operation was shut down and, following a trial in late March, Rensmeyer and one additional employee "[established] a protocol that [allowed] for a relatively risk-free pickup situation and minimal wait times".[19] Holy Trinity offered Thanksgiving options as take-out.[20] Rensmeyer closed the food cart for two days during a heat wave in July 2021, resulting in a loss of $7,000.[21]

Photograph of a menu display
Menu display

In October 2021, Rensmeyer confirmed plans to close in October 23.[3][22] Christopher Bjorke of the Portland Business Journal said the business "won praise from here to Texas", but closed "amid flagging sales".[23] Holy Trinity continued to operate as a pop-up,[24][25] including a dinner collaboration at Renata and a stint at Culmination Brewing in May 2022.[26][27]

Reception

Holy Trinity was deemed one of Portland's best new food carts by Michael Russell of The Oregonian.[28] Andrea Damewood included the business in the Portland Mercury's 2019 list of the city's five "most essential" barbecue carts.[6] It was also included in Portland Monthly's overview of the best new restaurants and "standout" carts in 2019. Writers said, "Five minutes after Holy Trinity opens, a line already snakes outside of Rensmeyer’s royal blue cart, which opened in May, sparking debate over which PDX food cart serves the best Texas barbecue... Whatever the alchemy behind Rensmeyer's seemingly simple meat-craft, it's a winning formula: for our money it's one of the best spots, if not the best, to get Texas barbecue in the city."[14]

Photograph of a blue food cart
The food cart in 2021

Comparing the restaurant to Matt's BBQ in 2019, Thrillist's Pete Cottell said Holy Trinity "is giving Matt's a run for its money as the resident siren for authentic 'cue-deprived Texans".[5] Holy Trinity was a finalist in the Food Cart of the Year category of Eater Portland's 2019 Eater Awards. Brooke Jackson-Glidden said, "Portland is already spoiled on the barbecue front; it didn't need another hardcore talent with a smoker. But the Texas barbecue at Jojo's neighbor, Holy Trinity, is far better than it needs to be, with gorgeous brisket, well-seasoned sausages, and knockout green-chile-cheese grits."[29] She also named Rensmeyer a "rising star" in the city's food and drink scene.[9]

Photograph of sausage and other food items on a paper plate with plastic cutlery and a white paper napkin
Sausage

In 2021, Jackson-Glidden and Nick Woo included Holy Trinity in Eater Portland's list of 15 "outstanding" Portland food carts.[11] She also included the business in a 2021 list of the city's 38 "essential" eateries.[30] Alyssa Therrien included Holy Trinity in the Daily Hive's 2021 list of "7 of the juiciest barbecue spots in and around Portland".[31] Covering Holy Trinity's pending closure, Christopher Bjorke of the Portland Business Journal said "the food cart barbecue had been hailed as among the best in the country."[32] The Portland Mercury's food columnist Janey Wong called the closure "a gut-wrenching loss". Bill Oakley also considered the closure a loss, and Jackson-Glidden wrote, "it's hard for me to ignore the way my heart broke when Holy Trinity announced its closure. Considering its brief tenure in Portland, I have so many fond memories of eating Holy Trinity beef ribs, those green chile grits, that *banana pudding.* I'll admit, I'm still holding out hope it returns eventually, in one form or another."[33]

See also

References
  1. Tepler, Benjamin (2019-05-18). "Holy Trinity Is Some of the City's Best New Barbecue". Portland Monthly. Archived from the original on 2021-03-08. Retrieved 2021-10-14.
  2. Vaughn, Daniel (2019-12-19). "Portland Has the Best Texas Barbecue Scene Outside of Texas". Texas Monthly. Archived from the original on 2021-04-16. Retrieved 2021-10-14.
  3. Frane, Alex (2021-10-14). "Portland Barbecue Destination Holy Trinity Is Closing This Month". Eater Portland. Vox Media. Archived from the original on 2021-10-14. Retrieved 2021-10-14.
  4. "Portland's Restaurant Newcomers of 2019, According to the City's Food Writers and Personalities". Eater Portland. 2019-12-26. Archived from the original on 2020-02-16. Retrieved 2021-10-14.
  5. "Where to Drink in Portland Right Now". Thrillist. Archived from the original on 2019-03-06. Retrieved 2023-05-02.
  6. Andrea Damewood. "Eat It Up: Portland's Five Most Essential Barbecue Carts". Portland Mercury. Archived from the original on 2022-12-05. Retrieved 2023-04-20.
  7. Landsel, David (October 3, 2019). "Portland Is the Unlikely Barbecue Hero the West Coast Needed". Food & Wine. Archived from the original on 2023-04-20. Retrieved 2023-04-20.
  8. "Barbecue". Willamette Week. Archived from the original on 2022-09-26. Retrieved 2023-04-20.
  9. Jackson-Glidden, Brooke (2019-12-20). "2019's Rising Stars in Portland's Food and Drink Scene". Eater Portland. Archived from the original on 2020-06-12. Retrieved 2021-10-14.
  10. Jackson-Glidden, Brooke (2020-05-21). "Where to Find Barbecue in Portland for Takeout or Delivery". Eater Portland. Archived from the original on 2021-07-20. Retrieved 2023-04-20.
  11. Woo, Nick (2015-06-10). "15 Outstanding Portland Food Carts". Eater Portland. Archived from the original on 2021-09-18. Retrieved 2021-10-14.
  12. Fodor's Inside Portland. Fodor's Travel. 2020-04-07. ISBN 978-1-64097-251-3. Archived from the original on 2023-04-20. Retrieved 2023-04-20.
  13. Jackson-Glidden, Brooke (2021-01-06). "Portland Chefs, Bakers, and Pitmasters on the Stuff They Put on Everything". Eater Portland. Archived from the original on 2023-02-03. Retrieved 2023-04-20.
  14. "2019's Cart Standouts Were All About the Meat and Potatoes". Portland Monthly. Archived from the original on 2022-09-26. Retrieved 2023-05-02.
  15. Jackson-Glidden, Brooke (2019-02-26). "Another Texas Barbecue Cart Is Joining the Increasingly Competitive Portland Market". Eater Portland. Archived from the original on 2020-06-12. Retrieved 2021-10-14.
  16. Jackson-Glidden, Brooke (2019-08-16). "Longstanding Steakhouse Ringside Now Has a Killer New Happy Hour". Eater Portland. Archived from the original on 2019-09-13. Retrieved 2021-10-14.
  17. "Did New Food Truck Holy Trinity Just Steal Portland's Texas BBQ Crown?". Portland Monthly. Archived from the original on 2022-07-01. Retrieved 2023-04-20.
  18. Gallagher, Natalie Torres (July 24, 2019). "Elite BBQ Spots All Over America Now Serve Righteous Flour Tortillas From Kansas". Kansas City Magazine. Archived from the original on October 22, 2022. Retrieved April 20, 2023.
  19. "Can American Barbecue Survive This?". Food & Wine. Archived from the original on 2023-02-17. Retrieved 2023-05-02.
  20. "Support your Portland restaurants with Thanksgiving-to-go". KOIN.com. 2020-11-18. Archived from the original on 2021-03-08. Retrieved 2023-04-20.
  21. Asmelash, Leah (2021-07-01). "As the Pacific Northwest heats up, restaurants are grappling with a new wave of challenges". CNN. Archived from the original on 2021-07-01. Retrieved 2021-10-14.
  22. Russell, Michael (2021-10-14). "One of Portland's best barbecue carts is closing next week". The Oregonian. Archived from the original on 2021-10-14. Retrieved 2021-10-14.
  23. Bjorke, Christopher (December 14, 2021). "PDX restaurant requiem: Favorite Portland eateries that closed this year". Portland Business Journal. Archived from the original on December 15, 2021. Retrieved May 2, 2023. Novice chef and amateur smoker Kyle Rensmeyer opened his food cart Holy Trinity BBQ two years ago and won praise from here to Texas. But he closed shop in October amid flagging sales.
  24. "The Best Barbecue in Every State". Food & Wine. Archived from the original on 2023-03-17. Retrieved 2023-04-20.
  25. "Portland's Best Spots for Smoky Southern Barbecue". Portland Monthly. Archived from the original on 2023-01-27. Retrieved 2023-04-20.
  26. "Hello, Goodbye: A Roundup of the City's Newest Dishes a Portlander Will Miss After Moving to the East Coast". Willamette Week. Archived from the original on 2023-01-14. Retrieved 2023-04-20.
  27. "Portland Food News and Events: May 19–25". Portland Monthly. Archived from the original on 2022-11-09. Retrieved 2023-04-20.
  28. "Holy Trinity Barbecue smokes meats in Southeast Portland". The Oregonian. Archived from the original on 2021-10-26. Retrieved 2023-04-20.
  29. Jackson-Glidden, Brooke (2019-11-18). "Meet the Finalists for Eater Portland's Best Restaurant of 2019 and More". Eater Portland. Archived from the original on 2020-09-04. Retrieved 2021-10-14.
  30. Jackson-Glidden, Brooke (2018-01-09). "The 38 Essential Restaurants and Food Carts in Portland". Eater Portland. Archived from the original on 2021-09-25. Retrieved 2021-10-14.
  31. "7 of the juiciest barbecue spots in and around Portland | Dished". Daily Hive. Archived from the original on 2021-09-05. Retrieved 2023-04-20.
  32. Bjorke, Christopher (October 15, 2021). "Top Portland barbecue spot is closing this month". Portland Business Journal. Archived from the original on January 8, 2022. Retrieved April 20, 2023.
  33. "Portland Food Writers' Saddest Restaurant and Food Cart Closures of 2021". Eater Portland. 2021-12-20. Archived from the original on 2023-03-21. Retrieved 2023-05-02.
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